TOWARD  THE  SUNRISE 
ON    "THE   SUNSET" 


TOWARD  THE  SUNRISE 
ON  "THE  SUNSET" 


TOWARD 

THE  SUNRISE 

ON  "THE  SUNSET" 


THE  RECORD  OF  A  JOURNEY 
IN  THE  LAND  OF  SUNSHINE 
BY  SIX  AND  A  HALF  TENDERFEET 


WRITTEN  AND  ILLUSTRATED 
BY    ALL    OF    US    TOGETHER 


NEW  YORK  —  PHILADELPHIA 

PRIVATELY  PRINTED  AND  NOT  PUBLISHED  AT  ALL, 
BECAUSE  WE  ARE  ON  VACATION 

1903 


Copyright,  1903,  by  as 
Please  keep  off  the  grass 


THE  WORLD'S  WORK  PRESS 
NEW  YORK 


TO 

E.  O.  McCORMICK 

JAMES    HORSBURGH,   JR. 

WILLIAM  McMURRAY 

and  all  the  good  "Sunset"  people  who  have  made  us 
thrice  blessed,  this  book  by  little-known  husbands  of 
well-known  wives  is 

DEDICATED 


THE  HAYSEEDS  FROM  THE  EAST : 

MR.  and  MRS.  F.  COIT  JOHNSON,  now  first  taking  up  the  literary 
life,  known  as  The  Gazelles ;  MR.  and  MRS.  EDWARD  BOK,  from 
Philadelphia,  and  glad  of  it,  known  (Heaven  knows  why)  as  The 
Lambs;  MR.  and  MRS.  FRANK  N.  DOUBLEDAY,  hard-working, 
industrious  citizens,  libeled  as  The  Bears  ;  DOROTHY  DOUBLEDAY,  small 
but  A.  D.  G.  s. 


FOREWORD 

THE    trail    of    the    Tenderfeet    practically 
ended    its     outgoing     course    at    Santa 
Barbara.     After    that    it  seemed  to  be 
the     homecoming,    and     we    had     steeled    our 
hearts    to    the    fate    of    becoming    simply   the 
regular  hardworking,  money-spending  California 
tourist. 

This  dreadful  fear,  however,  was  not  fulfilled. 
Even  at  Los  Angeles  strange  and  subtle  influences 
seemed  to  be  at  work  in  our  favor.  A  very 
gentlemanly  Mr.  Martin  "called  to  pay  his 
respects,"  and  to  say  that  the  State  was  ours, 
transmitting  this  message  from  Mr.  McCormick 
and  Mr.  Horsburgh.  When  we  left  Los  Angeles 
he  helped  the  Conservator  put  us  on  the  train; 
being  no  longer  able-bodied  men  and  women,  we 
had  to  be  "tended  and  mended"  day  by  day. 
He  introduced  us  to  the  conductor.  At  Santa 
Barbara  the  mysterious  influence  from  San 
Francisco  again  made  itself  felt  through  Mr. 
Shillingsburg,  and  we  knew  for  sure  that  we  were 
again  pampered  and  of  the  elect  when  Mr.  Hors- 
burgh turned  up  at  Del  Monte.  Now  we  began 
our  journey  "toward  the  sunrise  on  the  sunset."* 


*This    phrase    is    copyrighted    by    the    Heart    to    Heart 
Department  of  The  Ladies  Home  Journal. 


STARTED    FOR    A    NEW    CORRAL 

The  long  ride  north  from  Santa  Barbara  to 
Del  Monte  (Monterey)  was  a  revelation  of  love- 
liness, all  the  more  appreciated  because  we  were 
in  a  measure  unprepared  for  it.  For  miles  we 
skirted  the  Pacific,  at  times  near  the  level  of  tide- 
water, then  high  above  the  shore  with  the  waves 
breaking  on  a  rugged  coast  far  below ;  then  along  a 
wide  stretch  of  fertile  plains  in  process  of  tillage 
with  six,  eight  and  ten-horse  plows  at  work, 
and  snow-capped  mountains  in  the  background. 
Later,  the  wonderful  ride  over,  around  and 
through  San  Lucine  Mountains,  up 

A  GRADE  OF  116  FEET  TO  THE  MILE, 

to  the  summit  and  then  down  the  other  side  to 
the  northerly  slope  of  the  Coast  Range,  on  by  San 
Miguel  Mission,  which  we  could  plainly  see  from 
the  car  windows  and  so  to  the  Del  Monte,  where 
we  arrived  in  due  course,  or  an  hour  or  so  after. 
The  paternal  ancestor  of  our  Lady  Lamb,  in 
describing  Del  Monte,  said  something  to  the 
effect  that  if  Mr.  Milton  had  been  more  farseeing 
he  might  have  migrated  to  this  spot  and  found  a 
Paradise.  The  hotel  is  a  mammoth  caravansary, 
well  appointed  and  specklessly  neat  (thanks 


4          Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset " 

to  the  indefatigable  Chinese  scrubbers),  and  situ- 
ated amid  a  wealth  of  arboreal,  semitropical  luxu- 
riance, the  detailed  description  of  which  I  will 
leave  to  the  virile  and  more  accustomed  pen  of 
the  Lamb.  The  morning  after  our  arrival  we 
started  in  horse-cars  (soon  to  be  trolleyized)  for 

THE  GLASS-BOTTOMED  BOATS, 

and  were  fortunate  in  having  for  our  boatman 
a  delightful  Portuguese  giant,  an  ex-whaler  of 
forty  years'  experience  and  the  progenitor  of  nine 
children. 

He  rowed  us  to  the  submarine  gardens  and  we 
were  soon  huddled  beneath  the  black  canopy, 
exclaiming  at  the  marvels  beneath — gorgeously 
colored  and  delicately  tinted  starfish,  sea- 
urchins,  octopi,  sponges,  strange  fish  both  great 
and  small,  and  flora  of  all  sorts  and  shades.  It 
was  all  so  clear  and  distinct  that  we  began  to  feel 
very  much  at  home  with  the  society  beneath  the 
surface,  quite  in  the  swim,  in  fact;  but  we  dared 
not  dally  with  old  Neptune  too  long,  for  Mrs. 
Gazelle  began  to  feel  qualms  of — conscience  (at 
least,  that  is  her  version) ;  so  we  went  ashore  and 
walked  to  the  bath-house — the  best  of  its  kind 
yet.  A  delicious  dip,  a  good  luncheon  and  then — 
ho  !  for  the  golf  course  ! 

Perfect  tees,  springy  fair  greens,  real  turf  and 
putting  greens,  gave  the  men  unusually  good 
sport ;  though  the  surroundings  were  so  picturesque 
as  to  make  it  unusually  difficult  to  focus  attention 
on  the  balls. 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"          5 
THE    LADIES   WORKED    OUT   THEIR   SALVATION 

more  quietly,  walking,  resting,  etc.,  though  the 
Lady  Lamb  and  the  little  D.  G.  S.  Bear  had  a 
long  and  complicated  session  with  the  cypress 
maze,  having  to  call  finally  on  two  chivalrous 
soldiers  for  release.  Mr.  Fred  Johnson,  an  old 
Norwich  boy,  joined  us  for  the  evening,  which 
was  spent  around  the  ping-pong  table.  Tired, 
but  joyous,  we  retired  with  more  green  verdure 
for  our  collection. 

THE  TWENTY-EIGHTH  DAY  (March  yth) 

The  second  day  at  Del  Monte,  "the  Beautiful" 
(truly  named),  opened  with  the  crack  of  the  whip 
as  four  shining  bays  and  a  "brake"  dashed  up  to 
the  door  to  take  the  party  over  the  famous 
"  Seventeen-Mile  Drive. "  The  day  was  gloriously 
sunny,  the  reins  were  in  the  safe  hands  of  one 
"William"  (good  whip  and  good  gentleman), 
and  with  the  Gazelle  on  the  box  seat  as  coadjutor 
the  drive  was  on.  Through  the  park  grounds  of 
the  Del  Monte,  into  and  through  the  quaint  town 
of  Monterey, 

PAST  THE  FIRST  THEATRE  IN  AMERICA, 

past  the  first  Custom  House  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  then  with  a  reminder  of  Uncle  Sam  in  the 
shape  of  a  coloured  cavalry  encampment;  along 
the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Monterey ;  past 
rocks  freighted  with  bird  life  and  into  Pacific 


6  Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

Grove  swept  the  horses  and  their  charge.  Then 
the  eyes  of  the  party  feasted,  and  souls  rose  higher 
and  life  seemed  sweeter  as  mile  after  mile  of 
beautiful  grove  swept  by  with  its  tapered  pines, 
its  towering  firs  (which  the  Lady  Gazelle's  Grand- 
mother Keeler  remembered  having  seen  when 
they  were  little  huckleberry  bushes)  pointing  to 
the  sky ;  past  broken  green  vistas  giving  a  dash  of 
blue  water ;  past  the  rocks  whereon  the  seals  basked 
in  the  sun  and  shambled  off  into  the  water,  until 
all  the  glories  of  the  ride  culminated  at  Cypress 
Point  with 

ITS  GROVE  OF  SUPERB  STORM-THRASHED 
CYPRESS  TREES, 

and  their  hoods  of  velvet  green.  It  is  some- 
thing to  see  one  cypress,  as  sometimes  we  do,  in 
the  East  on  some  storm-beaten  coast,  but  to  see 
scores,  yes  hundreds,  one  more  beautiful  in  its 
artistically  misshapen  formation  than  the  other — v 
that  is  a  memory  verily  of  cypress  green.  On 
we  went  again,  ten  miles  of  the  drive  over,  but 
the  other  seven  equally  beautiful,  until  with  a 
suddenness  all  too  soon  in  its  coming  we  were 
back  in  Monterey :  back  to  the  shops ;  back  to  all 
things  stern  and  hard  save  the  romantic  walled-in 
little  home  of  the  fair  Senorita,  in  whose  place 
and  with  whom  General  Sherman  planted  a  rose- 
tree,  which  so  appealed  to  the  romantic  soul  of 
the  Lady  Gazelle  that  she  will  always  believe  the 
tale  although  angels  may  prove  its  falsity. 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"          7 
THE  TWENTY-NINTH  DAY  (Sunday,   March  8th) 

Inclination  and  rain  led  the  party  to-day  to 
confine  itself  to  the  beauties  of  Del  Monte,  with 
its  gardens  of  126  acres,  in  which  the  hands  of  the 
landscape  architect  and  the  gardener  have  reached 
their  ripest  skill,  thirty  separate  gardens  being 
maintained  at  an  annual  cost  of  $40,000.  It  is 


PRACTICALLY  AN  OLD-WORLD  ESTATE  IN  AMERICA 

with  the  trunks  of  gigantic  trees  clothed  with  ivy 
of  twenty-five  years'  growth;  with  rose-gardens 
of  every  variety  of  rose  known  to  the  growers 
of  the  world,  and  where  5,000  roses  bloom  at  one 
time;  with  a  camellia  garden;  with  an  Arizona 
garden  filled  with  the  cacti  and  growth  of  the 
future  State;  with  its  rockeries;  its  tennis  and 
croquet  courts;  its  sand-piles  for  children;  its 
lake;  and  lastly,  but  not  leastly,  its  "maze" — 
a  cleverly  constructed  bewildering  maze  of  paths 
bordered  with  arbor  vitae.  Into  this  the  ladies 
wandered  yesterday  and  reached  the  pivotal  point 
and  found  the  exits  without  great  trouble.  But 
the  attempt  of  the  men  was  not  so  successful. 
So  to-day  the  combined  forces  faced  the  problem, 
and  "they  came,  they  saw,  and  they  conquered." 
But  not  until  they  had  learned  the  combination 
of  keeping  to  the  right  upon  entering  and  to  the 
left  upon  leaving — a  solution  easy  enough  to  set 
on  paper  but  not  so  easy  to  follow  in  a  succession 
of  paths. 


8          Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

After  a  feast  of  horticulture  and  arborculture, 
the  party  set  off  to  the  haunts  of  "  Boscoe," 

A   NINE-MONTHS-OLD   ClNNAMON    BEAR 

tied  to  a  steel  chain  for  the  questionable  amuse- 
ment of  the  Del  Monte' s  guests  and  for  the  special 
teasing  proclivities  of  the  children.  Our  Bear, 
feeling  a  kindred  spirit  for  one  of  his  kind,  brought 
a  box  of  sweetmeats  and  fed  these  delectable 
indigestibles  to  his  younger  cinnamon  brother, 
much  to  the  delight  and  satisfaction  of  both 
Bears,  although  it  seemed  to  the  onlookers  that 
the  cinnamon  was  more  self-possessed  and  felt 
more  restful  and  seemed  more  at  home  than  did 
his  black  brother,  although  the  latter  was  far 
fleeter  of  foot. 

And  so  the  party  spent  a  quiet  Sabbath,  full  of 
memories  of  "Del  Monte  the  Beautiful." 

THIRTIETH  DAY  (March  Qth) 

Sorrowfully,  almost  tearfully,  the  Tenderfeet 
cast  lingering  glances  backward  toward  lovely 
Del  Monte  as  the  stage  carried  us  for  the  last  time 
through  those  wonderful  gardens  of  the  best  hotel 
in  California,  where  we  fain  would  have  roved  for 
a  month.  There  are  those  in  the  party — who 
shall  be  nameless — to  whom 

THE  SIGHT  OF  "SADIE  IN  HER  WAR-PAINT," 

on  the  way  to  take  the  same  train  with  us,  made 
the  agony  of  parting  from  our  host,  Mr.  Reynolds, 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset'1          9 

somewhat  "less  intense. "  Indeed,  it  was  for- 
tunate that  we  were  being  personally  conducted 
by  that  pink  of  all  proprieties,  Mr.  James 
Horsburgh,  Jr.,  Assistant  General  Passenger 
Agent  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  who  arrived  most 
opportunely  and  showed  some  of  us  how  to  travel 
in  a  straight  path  morally  as  well  as  geographi- 
cally. The  ladies  gratefully  resigned  refractory 
husbands  into  his  safe  keeping,  and  from  this  time 
forth  enjoyed  some  well-earned  repose. 

A  four-in-hand  coach  which  awaited  our  arrival 
when  the  train  reached  Santa  Cruz  soon  whirled 
us  away  through  the  town  and  along  its  cliff 
drive,  which  would  have  seemed  far  finer  had  we 
not  seen  so  recently  those  famous  twelve  miles 
of  water-front  among  the  beautiful  old  flat- 
topped  cypresses,  seal  rocks  and  pine  woods  on  the 
opposite  shore  of  Monterey  Bay.  But  a  new  thing 
under  the  sun  was  discovered  on  the  Santa  Cruz 
beach:  an  engine  worked  by  the  rise  and  fall  of 
the  waves  in  a  deep,  round  well,  cut  in  the  solid 
rock,  through  which  the  sea  rushed  with  power 
enough 

To  MERCERIZE  ALL  THE  COTTON  CLOTH 

and  print  all  the  books  and  journals  wanted  by 
a  needy  world.  Therefore,  why  not  move  our 
combined  businesses  to  Monterey?  We  could 
then  show  the  influence  of  sea-power  upon  history 
as  Captain  Mahan  never  dreamed  of  doing.  The 
inventor  of  this  Santa  Cruz  well  that  works  an 
engine  had  no  loftier  object  in  view  than  a  great 


io        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

red  tank  into  which  is  pumped  water  to  sprinkle 
the  dusty  roads. 

After  lunch  at  the  hotel,  the  Tenderfeet  climbed 
into  the  coach  for  another  memorable  drive,  this 
time  through  a  heavily  wooded  country  watered 
by  many  brooks  that  came  tumbling  and  cascad- 
ing out  of  verdant  canyons  into  one  real  river  in  the 
valley,  far  and  ever  farther  below,  for  the  road 
was  long  and  steep.  Up  and  up  went  the  heavy 
coach,  while  the  party  exclaimed  with  delight  at 
every  new  height  gained.  Redwoods  had  pre- 
dominated in  the  forests  all  along  the  drive, 
redwoods  such  as  we  had  met  in  other  parts  of 
California.  But  here  and  there  we  began  to  see 
trees  that  stood  forth  from  among  their  fellows, 
commanding  attention  by  their  size,  great  straight 
shafts  of  noble  height  and  girth  towering  upward 
from  the  roadside  to  where  their  fine  evergreen 
needles  formed  a  lacey  canopy  against  the  sky. 
Silence  fell  upon  the  once  talkative  company  in 

THE  PRESENCE  OF  CREATIONS  so  MAJESTIC 

But  not  yet  had  we  reached  the  grove  of  what  are 
known  as  "the  big  trees  of  Santa  Cruz"  to  dis- 
tinguish them  from  the  Mariposa  Grove.  Before 
reaching  our  destination  we  were  to  be  tortured  by 
the  sight  of  thousands  of  acres  from  which  every 
redwood  of  salable  size  had  been  cut,  split  and 
perverted  into  cash  to  add  yet  another  million 
to  the  pockets  of  an  already  multi-millionaire. 
"Breathes  there  a  man  with  soul  so  dead?"  we 
wondered  at  the  sight  of  the  charred  stumps  of 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"         n 

fallen  giants  that  were  great  trees  when  Rome 
was  mistress  of  the  world.  This  slaughter  of 
aged  Innocents  still  goes  on  in  California  (Oh,  the 
folly  of  it,  in  this  arid  State  of  all  places  !)  where  the 
land  is  owned  by  lumber  dealers  and  not  reserved 
by  the  Government  or  by  men  who  find  it  more 
profitable  to  charge  an  admission  fee  to  tourists 
like  ourselves.  But  righteous  anger  against 

THE  RICH  OLD  SINNER  WHO  HAD  DEVASTATED 

this  region  melted  after  we  crossed  the  line  of  his 
vast  possessions  and  entered  his  neighbor's 
territory,  where  redwoods  in  all  their  primeval 
grandeur  still  stood.  No  church  or  cathedral  has 
seemed  to  me  so  holy  a  place  as  this:  never 
have  I  felt  so  disposed  to  take  the  shoes  from  off 
my  feet  as  here  in  this  grove  of  trees  more  ancient 
than  the  Prophets — trees  that  were  pushing  their 
way  through  the  soil  of  an  unknown  continent 
when  Moses  gave  laws  to  the  Children  of  Israel, 
and  live  to-day  as  they  were  living  then,  in  sinless 
conformity  with  the  divine  law  as  no  man  save 
One  ever  lived.  Silent,  majestic,  serene  they 
stand,  oblivious  of  years,  oblivious  of  the  rise  of 
empires  and  the  fall  of  thrones,  of  discovery  and 
conquest,  of  the  tyranny,  passion,  hate  raging  in 
the  hearts  of  men  that  came  to  people  this  very 
land,  their  home;  oblivious  and  silent  as  the 
Sphinx  of  Egypt. 

In  the  indescribably  beautiful  mellow  twilight 
of  the  forest  we  measured  trees  more  than  sixty  feet 
in  circumference.  We  entered  a  hollow  trunk 
where  all  our  party  stood  comfortably,  and  in 


12         Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

which  General  Fremont,  the  Pathfinder,  once 
made  his  camp.  We  saw 

THE  LARGEST  GROUP  OF  TREES  IN  EXISTENCE 

eighteen  Sequoias  from  a  common  root  which,  no 
doubt,  once  sprang  from  the  stump  of  a  fallen 
giant,  as  is  the  habit  of  these  well-nigh  deathless 
trees.  We  noted  the  luxuriant  upper  growth  from 
trunks  that  were  merely  hollow  shells  at  their 
base;  we  listened  to  the  tales  of  a  guide  whose 
chatter  about  statistics,  dimensions  and  celebrities 
who  had  visited  the  grove  were  as  jarring  to  the 
spirit  in  Nature's  sublime  sanctuary  as  the  babble 
of  Cook's  tourists  in  Westminster  Abbey. 

A  brief  ride  on  the  rear  platform  of  the  narrow 
gauge  railroad  train  through  a  region  of  astonish- 
ing beauty  brought  us  to  San  Jos£,  where  Mr. 
Shoup,  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  stood  ready  to 
act  as  Guardian- Angel-in-Charge.  There  was 
still  another  four-in-hand  coach  drive  before  us, 
this  time  through  the  miles  of  prune  orchards 
that  furnish  desserts  for  all  the  boarding-schools* 
in  the  country.  Prunes,  apricots,  cherries,  pears, 
sweet  peas  and  other  garden  seeds  by  the  train- 
load  are  shipped  from  this  garden  spot  of  the 
Santa  Clara  Valley  to  the  effete  East.  Electric 
lights,  furnished  by 

POWER  TRANSMITTED  MORE    THAN  A  HUNDRED 
AND  FIFTY  MILES 

seemed  to  us  the  most  astonishing  sight  in  the 

*This  is  a  joke.     We  are  awfully  tired  of  it. — J.  H.,  Jr. 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"         13 

streets  of  San  Jose.  After  seeing  the  new  Car- 
negie Library  and  other  buildings,  in  which  the 
citizens  take  great  pride,  we  begged  to  rest  awhile, 
at  the  Hotel  Vendome,  much  to  the  disgust  of  the 
Pink. 

THIRTY-FIRST  DAY  (Tuesday,  March  loth) 

After  the  utter  weariness  in  which  we  had  all 
retired,  it  was  a  relief  to  awaken  refreshed  and 
rejuvenated,  for  this  was  to  be  our  "busy  day" 
with  a  vengeance.  This  was  our  telegraph  invita- 
tion, which  came,  we  feel  sure,  at  the  suggestion 
of  Mr.  Horsburgh: 

SAN  JOSE,  CALIFORNIA. 

Frank  N.  Doubleday:  Chamber  of  Commerce  of  San  Jose" 
invites  yourself  and  party  for  carriage  drive  around  San  Jose" 
and  Santa  Clara  Valley.  V.  A.  SCHELLER,  President. 

Coming  from  breakfast,  we  found  a  group  of 
delegates  from  the  San  Jos6  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce awaiting  us,  and  without  wasting  any  time 
we  were  tucked  up  cozily  in  automobiles  and 
whirled  away  to  the  tree-planting,  for  you  must 
know  that  this  was  Arbor  Day  in  the  Santa 
Clara  Valley.  After  a  short  run  from  town  we 
came  upon  a  series  of  horny-handed  sons  of  toil 
wielding  spades  beside  the  way  who  were  pointed 
out  to  us  as  the  prominent  citizens ;  and  when  our 
machines  drew  up  a  little  farther  on,  we  were 
quite  in  the  spirit  of  the  occasion,  and  felt  that 
we  could  not  exist  another  minute  without  a  spade. 
The  spots  indicated  and  the  trees  placed,  we 
went  to  work.  Each  one  dug  the  hole  and 


14        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset'1 

planted  the  tree — this  means  the  ladies  and  the 
little  D.  G.  S.,  mind  you — only  the  fragile  Gazelle 
outfit  making  theirs  a  combination  affair,  and  the 
confession  must  be  made  that  even  so  they  were 
glad  of  the  kindly  offices  of  a  colored  man  hard 
by  who  seemed  to  make  the  dirt  fly  in  record 
time,  as  theirs  did  not.  Photographers  were  on 
hand,  as  well  as  all  the  other  inhabitants,  both 
great  and  small,  and  we  cannot  but  believe  that 
the  Bears  and  the  Lambs  will  be  shining  examples 
in  the  thriving,  public-spirited  city  of  San  Jose 
for  many  a  long  day.  But  even  shining  lights 
must  at  last  go  out,  so  after  the  big  Bear  had 
wiped  the  honest  drops  from  his  brow  the  proces- 
sion moved.  The  same  beautiful  road  went  on 
and  on,  and  then  began  to  climb  the  mountain 
to  the  Lick  Observatory,  twenty-seven  miles 
away.  We  followed  it  well  up  in  the  world,  where 
we  could  get  a  superb  view  of  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  as  well  as  the  most  fertile  valleys  in  the 
country — the  Santa  Clara.  The  beauty  of  the 
acres  and  miles  of  prune  trees  just  beginning  to 
blossom  is  as  nothing,  we  are  told,  to  that  of  the 
summer  season,  when  the  sweet  peas  and  other 
seedsmen's  favorites  are  in  bloom. 

Coming  down  the  mountain  again  we  were 
taken  around  the  foot  of  it  to  Alum  Rock  Park, 
where,  at  the  spring,  our  conductors,  Messrs. 
Mathews  and  Hayes  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
invited  us  to  partake  of  refreshments — sulphur, 
soda  and  pure  water.  Then,  after  a  flying  glimpse 
of  the  aviary  and  baths,  we  were  again  whirled 
away,  soon,  however,  to  stop  long  enough  to  throw 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset "         15 

a  rope  to  one  of  the  two  Olds  machines  in  the 
party,  and  in  this  familiar,  hackneyed  style  we 
descended  upon  the  great  Flickinger  Company's 
orchard  and  cannery,  where  the  Mr.  Graham  in 
charge  did  his  best  to  ruin  our  appetites  with  his 
delicious  peaches  and  plums.  However,  when 
we  were  presently  deposited  at  the  Vendome  we 
managed  to  toy  with  our  luncheon  in  our  usual 
generous  fashion,  and  then  took  the  train  for 
Palo  Alto,  conducted  by  Mr.  Horsburgh,  our  big 
Bear  having  hurried  on  ahead  to  obtain  a 
much  desired  interview  with  Doctor  Jordan,  the 
President  of  the  Leland  Stanford  University. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  little  village  of  Palo  Alto 
we  were  met  by  two  pleasant  young  men,  the 
Messrs.  McDowell,  who  did  the  honors,  and  showed 
great  pride  in  their  Alma  Mater,  as  well  they 
might,  for  it  is  a  stupendous  conception  and  won- 
derful work.  It  will  take  many  years  to  carry 
out  all  the  plans  and  tone  down  the  effects  to  the 
perfection  point,  but  the  foundation  is  here  and 
a  great  future  before  it.  A  hurried  visit  was  paid 
to  the  different  buildings  and  a  few  quiet  moments 
spent  in  the  new  church — a  memorial  to  Senator 
Stanford  by  his  wife,  where  the  beauty  of  each 
detail  almost  detracted  from  the  whole;  an 
$80,000  copy  in  mosaic  of  Leonardo  Da  Vinci's 
"Last  Supper,"  for  instance,  was  hardly  to  be 
seen  for  other  altar  decorations.  The  mosaic 
work  all  over  the  church  was  very  wonderful,  but 
its  effect  was  marred,  I  thought,  by  the  more 
vivid  coloring  of  the  stained  glass  windows, 
beautiful  though  they  were,  while  the  all-seeing 


1 6        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset11 

eye  of  giant  size  in  the  dome  was  more  than  dis- 
concerting. On  the  whole,  however,  the  present 
recorder,  being  a  very  common-place  sort  of 
person,  enjoyed  the  church,  especially  the  rose- 
window  over  the  entrance.  We  all  met  Doctor 
and  Mrs.  Jordan  and  a  visiting  Oxford  professor, 
and  then  drove  about  Mrs.  Stanford's  place, 
besprinkled  with  mausoleums,  weeping  angels, 
and  monuments  of  many  kinds.  Our  Gazelle,  in  his 
disrespectful,  irreverent  way,  says  she  is  a  "  bang- 
up  mourner,"  when  she  runs  short  of  relatives 
she  plants  reindeer  and  mastiffs  and  very  many 
sphinxes  about  her  door-yard.  A  monument 
more,  and  a  turn  of  the  road  leads  us  through  a 
wealth  of  sweet  violets,  then  a  covey  of  California 
quail,  and  we  soon  reach  the  ball-ground,  where 
the  faculty  are  playing  one  of  the  fraternities. 
In  an  instant  our  men  are  boys  again,  and  it 
takes  a  firm  and  steady  hand  to  pilot  them  away 
to  the  station,  where  the  iron  steed  soon  rushes 
in,  and  an  hour  and  a  half  later  we  find  ourselves 
in  San  Francisco,  being  trolleyed  to  the  Palace 
Hotel.  A  speedy  but  delicious  supper  was  soon 
forthcoming,  and  with  highly  colored  visions 
of  Chinatown  to  spur  us  on  we  started  afresh, 
this  time  with  Mr.  Glennon,  an  ex-detective  with 
a  record  of  fourteen  years  in  this  foreign  quarter, 
to  pilot  us.  After  a  glimpse  of  Nob  Hill  we 
made  a  flying  tour  of  Sing  Fat's,  the  great  Chinese 
emporium,  then  past  numberless  queer  little 
shops  selling  all  sorts  of  queer  little  things,  then 
to  an  opium  joint  where  the  disgusting  smoking 
process  was  seen  in  operation,  and  then — oh,  then, 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset "        17 

to  the  Chinese  theatre !  Going  in  by  the  main 
entrance,  we  found  the  crowd  of  Chinamen  too 
dense  to  make  our  way  through,  so  Mr.  Glennon 
took  us  around  to  the  stage  entrance,  and  then 
we  went  down,  down  through  long,  underground 
passages  where  the  actors  live — for  you  must  know 
that  they  are  ostracized  and  despised  by  the 
community  about  them,  and  live  as  a  class  apart. 
Passing  through  the  greenroom  filled  with  actors 
painting,  robing  and  bewhiskering  themselves, 
we  are  given  chairs  at  one  side  of  the  stage  where 
both  the  performance  and  audience  are  before  us. 
Every  bench  and  every  aisle  were  filled,  and 
Chinamen  were  standing  three  or  four  deep  right 
up  to  the  stage.  At  the  back  sat  the  musicians, 
with  their  three  or  four  fiendish  instruments 
clanging  away  incessantly;  in  the  centre  was  the 
stage  manager,  with  a  window-frame  affair  which 
seemed  to  comprise  the  scenery,  all  changes  being 
denoted  by  little  signs  which  he  would  unroll 
and  hang  from  this  frame  from  time  to  time. 
All  the  parts  are  taken  by  men,  the  salary  of  those 
impersonating  women  depending  upon  the  closeness 
of  their  mimicry  of  voice  and  actions,  a  sort  of 
lackadaisical  stoicism  resulting  that  is  very  ludi- 
crous. The  sea  of  faces  before  us  was  quite  as 
interesting  as  the  stage  performance ;  the  absorp- 
tion of  the  audience  was  complete,  and  absolutely 
no  notice  whatever  was  taken  of  the  ' 'foreign 
devils,"  as  they  call  Americans.  The  nerves  of 
some  of  us  were  crying  aloud,  so  the  word  was  given 
to  move  on,  to  the  sorrow  of  the  Lady  Gazelle, 
who  would  have  dearly  loved  to  stay  to  the  finish, 


1 8        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset11 

which  might  be  next  week  or  possibly  next  month. 
Stopping  a  moment  on  the  other  side  of  the  stage, 
where  a  view  could  be  had  of  the  women's  gallery 
— for  the  women  are  on  too  low  a  plane  to  sit  with 
their  mighty  masters — we  followed  again  the  little 
narrow,  stuffy  passages,  all  reeking  with  opium, 
to  the  blessed  open  air,  and  started  for  the  joss- 
house.  On  the  way  we  heard  peculiar  bangs  and 
slams  and  thuds  on  all  sides,  which,  it  was  ex- 
plained, was  the  sound  of  doors  closing  at  the 
''gentlemen's  clubs,"  or  gambling  dens,  which  were 
all  about  us,  heavy  iron  doors  with  mighty  springs 
shutting  them  in,  and  all  visitors  being  inspected 
through  a  small  grating  at  the  side.  The  joss- 
house  was  interesting  with  its  incense  and  idols, 
but  as  the  wee  sma'  hours  were  approaching  and 
our  Baby  Bear  was  yawning  we  hurried  on  to  a 
restaurant  where  the  natives  were  dexterously 
manipulating  the  chop-sticks  at  their  midnight 
meal.  A  cup  of  tea  and  some  candied  fruits  and 
nuts  fortified  us  for  our  walk  home,  and  we 
turned  in  with  the  complacent  consciousness  that 
for  one  day  at  least  we  had  followed  the  example 
of  the  "busy  bee"  of  our  childhood,  for  we  surely 
had  "improved  each  shining  hour." 

THE  THIRTY-SECOND  DAY  (March  nth) 

The  first  day  in  San  Francisco  very  properly 
began  with  a  visit  to  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 
The  Zoo  descended,  en  masse,  on  Mr.  E.  O. 
McCormick,  Passenger  Traffic  Manager  of  the 
road,  and  it  lost  its  collective  heart,  there  and 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        19 

then,  to  that  Chesterfieldian  gentleman.  As  the 
call  progressed  we  were  so  much  impressed  with 
the  quiet  force  which  seemed  to  emanate  from 
the  Powers  That  Be  that  discussion  and  ques- 
tionings began.  We  were  then  shown  some  of 
their  advertising  work,  which  is  as  interesting  as 
it  is  instructive;  their  pamphlets  and  literature 
showing  the  wonders  of  California  from  the 
glories  of  the  big  trees  to  the  amazing  possibilities 
of  the  one-acre  farm,  upon  one  of  which  a  man 
and  wife  supported  themselves  and  cleared  $400 
in  one  year.  Even  nature-study  primers  are 
provided  to  schools,  with  tree  cones  and  tree 
seeds,  and  perhaps  the  most  unique  article  given  is 

A   TAPE    AS    MANY    FEET    IN    LENGTH 

i 

as  the  circumference  of  the  Grizzly  Giant,  the 
use  of  which  is  surely  an  impressive  object  lesson. 
The  motive  back  of  all  seems  to  be  the  glorifica- 
tion of  their  wonderful  State,  a  State  which 
offers  health  and  golden  opportunity  to  all  who 
will  come. 

Mr.  McCormick  was  bent  on  our  seeing  the 
Yosemite  and  the  Kings'  River  Canyon,  which  he 
said  was  twenty-six  miles  wide,  four  hundred  and 
thirty-six  miles  long,  and  painted  like  a  bouquet. 
The  big  trees  of  the  Mariposa  Grove  we  yearned 
for,  but  even  the  Passenger  Traffic  Manager  had 
to  admit  to  eight  feet  of  snow  in  the  forest,  and 
this  he  felt  was  too  much  for  tenderfeet. 

We  were  then  taken  in  charge  by  one  Dianthus 
Elegans  (perhaps  more  commonly  known  as  the 


20        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

"  Pink")  and  driven  to  the  Cliff  House  for  lunch- 
eon, passing  first  through  the  thriving,  prosperous- 
looking  business  section,  then  through  the  resi- 
dence part  of  the  city,  with  its  broad,  well-paved 
streets,  bordered  on  each  side  with  homes  that, 
on  Nob  Hill,  are  palaces.  We  went  on  through 
the  Presidio,  where  our  soldiers  live  in  a  veritable 
park,  and  on  past  forts  that  bristled  with  guns, 
until  we  came  to  a  bluff  where  the  San  Francisco 
Bay  lay  before  us,  with 

ITS   GOLDEN   GATE    LEADING   OUT 

to  the  great  ocean  beyond.  An  enemy  must  be 
fearless  indeed  who  would  try  to  force  an  entrance 
there.  Across  the  bay  are  the  mountains  sloping 
down  to  its  edge,  and  in  the  harbor  are  Govern- 
ment islands  where  are  guardhouse,  prison,  etc. 
We  saw  all  this  when  the  sky  was  slightly  over- 
cast and  everything  was  softened  in  tone  to  a 
silvery  tint  of  pearl.  The  bay,  with  its  splendid 
mountains  on  one  side  and  the  busy  city  on  the 
other,  with  that  glorious  sloping  of  soft-colored 
rock  on  each  side  of  Golden  Gate,  gave  us  a 
stirring  impression  of  the  beauty  and  strength 
of  this  wonderful  harbor. 
As  luncheon  was  served  in 

THE    TOWER    ROOM    OF    THE    CLIFF    HOUSE, 

which  latter  is  at  the  ocean's  edge,  we  were  able, 
between  courses,  to  watch  the  seals  on  the  rocks 
below,  and  were  much  interested  in  seeing  the 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        21 

new  Pacific  mail  steamer  Siberia  start  off  on 
her  maiden  journey  to  China  and  Japan. 

Before  mounting  our  brakes  we  went  to  the 
Sutro  baths,  which  are  perhaps  the  largest  swim- 
ming tanks  in  America,  and  then  drove  back  to 
the  city  through  its  very  beautiful  park.  We 
found  here  a  perfect  wealth  of  flowers  and  trees, 
with  fine  roads  winding  through  for  a  distance  of 
five  miles.  These  oiled  roads  are  a  soft  brown 
color,  forming  a  combination  with  the  surrounding 
green  that  is  wonderfully  pleasing  and  restful 
to  the  eye.  To  the  right  of  the  park  is  a  great 
bank  of  shifting  sand  stretching  to  the  ocean, 
and  we  learned  to  our  amazement  that  this  park 
was  originally  part  of  that  sand  bank  —  void  of  any 
sign  of  vegetation.  Every  particle  of  soil  in  the 
park  to-day  has  been  carted  from  many  miles 
away,  and  every  tree,  flower  and  blade  of  grass 
was  brought  from  a  distance  and  planted  there. 

The  next  step  was  mountainward,  as  we  were 
to  spend 

THE    NIGHT    ON    MOUNT    TAMALPAIS, 


2,597  feet  above  the  sea.  We  crossed  the  bay 
by  ferry,  took  a  train,  and,  by  changing  once, 
started  off  up  the  mountain  climb  in  the  twilight 
on  the  "crookedest  railroad  in  the  world."  The 
engine  pushed  us  up,  and  the  Lamb  played 
engineer  for  a  time.  The  moon  came  up  and 
revealed  the  depth  of  the  forest  beneath  us  while 
we  climbed;  and  as  we  approached  the  summit 
the  glimpses  which  we  had  of  the  ocean,  the  bay  and 


22         Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

the  twinkling  city  away  below  us,  were  so  beautiful 
that  fatigue  fled  and  we  felt  conscious  of  the  rest 
and  limitless  quiet,  and  that  only.  Several 
members  of  the  city's  Bohemian  Club  were  with 
us,  and  Mr.  Runyon.  our  host,  an  official  of  the 
road,  our  friends,  Mr.  McMurray  and  the  Pink.  So 
it  was  a  big  and  merry  company  that  sat  down  to 
dinner  at  8:30  p.  M.  in  the  tavern  on  top  of  the 
mountain.  Most  of  the  party,  before  retiring, 
went  out  for  a  walk,  and  declared  the  moonlight 
view  to  be  one  of  surpassing  beauty.  There  were 
others  who,  knowing  that  an  early  hour  had  been 
set  for  rising  in  the  morning,  were  sensible  enough 
to  go  early  to  bed — minus  moonlight.  But  can  a 
leopard  give  up  his  spots?  Or  a  Philadelphian 
his  sleep? 

THIRTY-THIRD    DAY    (March    i2th) 

Properly,  this  day  was  to  begin  at  six  in  the 
morning,  before  the  sun  had  time  to  get  up  the 
mountain,  where  we  had  spent  the  night,  as 
recounted  by  the  ewe  Lamb;  but,  unhappily,  a 
cloud  of  mist  and  rain  permitted  the  "celestial 
orb,"  as  the  Gazelle  would  say,  to  sneak  into 
the  world  unbeknownst  while  we  still  slept.  The 
manager  of  the  hotel  called  us  ;  not,  as  promised, 
but  by  eight  some  of  the  clouds  had  cleared  away 
and  we  could  see  from  the  splendid  height  the 
topography  of  the  Golden  Gate,  the  towns  of 
Berkeley,  Oakland  and  Alameda  and  San  Francisco 
itself. 

To  the  present  writer  there  seems  hardly  any 
doubt  that  the  animals  of  this  Zoo  are  gifted  with 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"         23 

a  temperament  which  nothing  can  spoil,  because 
here  again  we  were  treated  with  a  distinction 
which  is  the  right  of  only  presidents  and  kings, 
and  yet  we  remained  the  modest,  unassuming 
and  gentle  natures  so  earnestly  advocated  by 
that  peerless  magazine,  The  Ladies'  Home  Journal. 
The  train  down  the  mountain  was  scheduled  to 
leave  at  7:30  A.  M.,  but  what  are  time-tables  to 
the  Zoo?  The  Lamb  uttered  his  first  faint  bleat 
at  7 130,  so  the  train  was  held  up  until  8 130,  and 
then  used  as  a  baggage  wagon  while  we  descended 
on  a  hand-car  controlled  by  our  host,  Mr.  Runyon. 
Down  these  eight  miles  we  dropped  2,500  feet, 
around  the  double  bow-knot  spot,  over  beautiful 
gorges,  through  wonderful  cuts,  around  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  doubling,  twisting  and  turning, 
no  portion  of  the  track  being  straight  for  more 
than  400  feet.  We  stopped  now  and  then  at 
some  particularly  beautiful  place,  and  the  Bear 
was  sent  to  gnaw  off  the  branch  of  some  flowering 
tree.  When  we  finally  arrived  at  the  bottom  we 
wanted,  like  children,  to  do  it  all  over  again.  It 
seemed  as  though  we  must  have  failed  to  see  some 
of  the  beauties. 

All  but  the  Bruins  stopped  at  the  ferry-house, 
which  is  truly  a  marvelous  creation,  an  eighth  of 
a  mile  long  or  so,  with  a  tower  like  a  slender  finger 
pointing  upward.  Here  all  the  railroads  come 
into  the  city  across  the  bay  from  the  mainland. 
Here  there  is  also  maintained  an  exhibition  of  all 
the  products  of  California,  where  the  elect  may 
feast  their  eyes  and  stimulate  their  imaginations, 
for  of  such  is  the  Golden  State. 


24        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

The  Bear  family  spent  an  hour  with  Mrs. 
Frank  Norris.  Later  the  gentlemen  of  the  party 
rallied  around  the  Bohemian  Club,  where  a 
luncheon  was  given  to  us,  including  Mr.  Wilson, 
of  whom  Mr.  Runyon,  of  the  Crookedest  Railway 
in  the  World,  was  sole  proprietor,  having  created 
him  out  of  nothing.  He  confused  the  name  of 
F.  Coit  Johnson  with  James  H.  Wilson,  and  when 
one  considers  the  marked  similarity,  this  trifling 
error  seems  natural.  Mr.  Wilson  behaved  in  so 
quiet  and  exemplary  a  manner  that  the  Gazelle 
had  no  cause  to  be  ashamed  of  him. 

The  myriads  of  readers  to  whom  these  lines  are 
addressed  may  possibly  have  noticed  that  when 
this  writer  is  put  to  it  to  describe  some  marvel 
of  nature,  some  gigantic  wonder  like  the  Grand 
Canyon,  thirteen  miles  wide,  218  miles  long  and 
painted  like  a  flower,  some  surpassing  example  of 
manly  beauty  like  the  Pink  of  Perfection,  he 
avers  with  that  modesty  for  which  he  is  not  up 
to  the  present  well  known,  that  it  baffles  the 
efforts  of  the  Waterman  pen;  and  so  in  this  case 
his  hopeless  inability  to  describe  this  luncheon  is 
borne  in  on  him.  The  table  was  round  and  as 
large  as  a  section  of  one  of  the  great  redwoods; 
there  were  peach  branches  in  blossom  as  decora- 
tion, and  violets  strewn  about  in  graceful  pro- 
fusion. Fifteen  or  sixteen  members  gave  us 
welcome.  Of  all  their  names  I  can  set  down  but 
few.  There  was  the  president  of  the  club,  Mr. 
Deering;  Mr.  C.  M.  Field,  the  secretary,  and  a 
nephew  of  the  Daniels  of  New  York;  Mr.  E.  O. 
McCormick,  who  for  a  few  hours  took  his  hands 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset'1        25 

off  the  Southern  Pacific  throttle;  Mr.  Aiken, 
the  editor  of  the  Sunset  Magazine;  and  another 
Mr.  Aiken,  a  sculptor;  Mr.  Porter,  an  old  friend 
of  Frank  Norris ;  Lieutenant  Rowland,  who  gave 
the  Lamb  a  superb  mahogany  desk  because  he 
expressed  an  interest  in  it;  Mr.  Alexander 
Robinson,  a  bookseller,  who  had  been  stuck  by 
Doubleday,  Page  &  Company's  books  and  bore 
no  grudge;  Ernest  Peixotto,  the  illustrator; 
Mr.  Charles  Keeler  and  many  others,  who  puffed 
our  pride  by  treating  us  as  though  we  were 
cabinet  ministers  at  the  very  least. 

I  could  go  on  and  on  telling  of  this  luncheon, 
the  calls  afterward,  accompanied  by  a  friendly 
escort,  who  stopped  business  while  we  were 
attended  to,  but  I'm  not  allowed  to  write  the 
whole  book. 

THIRTY-FOURTH  DAY  (Friday,  March  i3th) 

Lucky  day  for  California,  for  it  poured  cats 
and  dogs,  though  Mrs.  Bear  more  truly  and 
poetically  described  it  as  a  golden  rain ;  and  in 
fact  such  a  wetting,  at  this  season,  means 
untold  wealth  to  the  State.  It  was  our  last 
full  (full  is  the  word)  day  in  San  Francisco, 
and  we  were  up  and  at  it  betimes,  assorting  our- 
selves into  different  groups  as  our  necessities 
required,  or  as  our  guide,  philosopher  and  Pink 
directed.  Some  of  us  did  a  little  business,  though 
we  learned  that  the  Bear  did  most,  if  not  all,  the 
booksellers.  Then,  while  the  ladies  shopped 
(and  good  shopping  they  say  it  was),  the  men 


26         Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

visited  the  plant  of  the  Sunset  Press,  controlled 
by  Mr.  Howard  Tibbitts,  which  puts  into  artis- 
tically illustrated  form  magazine,  railroad  and 
other  kinds  of  descriptive  literature,  their  photo- 
graphic work  being  especially  fine.  At  twelve 
we  all  met  at  the  studio  of  William  Keith,  the 
Corot  of  America.  A  great  artist,  we  all  agreed, 
and  wondered  why  we  of  the  East  had  heard  so 
little  of  him.  He  is  a  picturesque  figure,  with  a 
leonine  head  and  mane;  apparently  more  than 
seventy,  but  his  best  work  has  been  done  in  the 
past  six  years,  and  he  appears  to  be  now  at  the 
acme  of  his  vigor  and  power  as  an  artist.  The 
Bears  were  obliged  to  hurry  away  to  keep  a  lunch- 
eon engagement  with  Mrs.  Frank  Norris,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  party  returned  to  the  hotel  for  a 
frugal  repast,  after  which  more  shopping  and  then 
another  round-up  at  the  Presbyterian  Mission  for 
Chinese  slave  girls,  where  we  were  met  by  Mrs. 
Horsburgh,  the  sister-in-law  of  our  friend ;  and  one 
of  the  managers.  This  society  is  doing  good  work, 
under  the  direction  of  Miss  Cameron,  who  has 
passed  through  many  thrilling  experiences  in 
her  rescue  raids.  Here  we  saw  all  sizes,  from 
cunning  wee  almond-blossom  babies  to  girls  of 
marriageable  age,  which  is  from  fourteen  to 
sixteen  years.  They  delight  in  music,  and  their 
pretty  part  songs,  which  were  accompanied  on 
the  piano  by  one  of  the  older  girls,  were  in  marked 
and  pleasing  contrast  to  the  discordant  jangles 
we  heard  two  nights  before  at  the  Chinese  theatre ; 
and  their  proficiency  in  naming  in  order  the 
books  of  the  Bible  put  us  to  shame. 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"     27 

Parting  calls  on  some  of  our  new  friends  were 
followed  by  a  dinner  at  the  Poodle  Dog,  the 
French  restaurant  in  vogue;  after  which,  tired 
and  jaded,  we  repaired  to  the  hotel  to  pack, 
preparatory  to  leaving  on  No.  4  at  eight  o'clock 
the  next  morning 

Hardly  had  we  started  on  this  work,  however, 
when  the  Pink  arrived  with  the  welcome  news 
that  he  had  secured  places  for  us  on  the  "  Over- 
land Limited,"  leaving  at  10  A.  M.,  and  due  at 
Ogden  six  hours  earlier  than  No.  4.  Im- 
mediately "that  tired  feeling"  left  us,  and  we 
settled  ourselves  for  a  "quiet  English  evening 
at  home,"  with  Mr.  Horsburgh  to  help  us  forget 
that  this  was  the  eve  of  our  departure  from 
California. 

THE  THIRTY-FIFTH  DAY   (March   i4th) 

To-day  the  thought  was  of  home  and  children. 
The  trip  was  practically  over  and  the  homeward 
journey  was  to  begin.  So  with  the  Gazelle 
wearing  his  most  artistic  amber-colored  Budd 
shirt,  the  Bear  showing  the  tallest  collar  ever  seen 
in  San  Francisco,  and  the  Pink,  in  the  very 
flower  of  condition,  showing  a  new  and  beautiful 
plum-colored  cravat,  the  party  started  for  the 
Oakland  Ferry  to  take  the  Overland  Limited. 
The  gulls  of  San  Francisco  Bay  followed  the 
ferry-boat  to  flap  their  good-by  to  the  departing 
Tenderfeet  and  incidentally  to  pick  up  the  break- 
fast rolls  thrown  over  to  them  by  our  friend  of 
quiet  force,  Mr.  McMurray,  who,  considerate  to 


28        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

the  last,  followed  the  Tenderfeet  to  the  train. 
Then  came  that  moment  of  joy  that  always 
accompanies  the  prospect  of  material  comfort 
when  it  was  discovered  that  the  combined 
McCormick-Horsburgh-McMurray  forces  had  pro- 
vided a  private  stateroom  for  each  pair  of  the 
party — the  last  (we  thought)  but  not  the  least 
touch  of  Southern  Pacific  courtesy.  Then  came 
the  firm  grasp  of  hand  that  tells  so  much  more 
than  words  of  thanks  as  we  said  "au  revoir  but 
not  adieu"  to  the  Pink  and  the  Man  of  Quiet 
Force.  Our  friends  of  days  had  gone,  but  not 
their  thoughtful  courtesies.  "Godspeed  them," 
said  we,  and  then  the  train  was  off,  and  our  faces 
were  turned  to  the  East — effete,  yes,  but  HOME  ! 
Along  the  edge  of  San  Francisco  Bay  sped  the 
train,  then  through  the  beautiful  green-clad 
Sacramento  Valley,  from  whence  come  the 
earliest  cherries,  peaches  and  apricots  in  the 
State,  and  in  such  quantities  that  from  each  of 
these  stations  it  is  not  an  uncommon  event  to  ship 
a  trainload  of  forty-five  fruit-laden  cars  each 
day.  The  electric  light  here  is  generated  on  the 
Yuba  River,  transmitted  through  the  towns  of 
the  valley,  giving  power  of  lighting,  manufac- 
ture, trolley,  reaching  Oakland,  145  miles  distant, 
where  it  supplies  the  entire  town,  this  long- 
distance transmission  being  at  a  loss  of  less  than 
five  per  cent.  The  water  from  the  Yuba  River 
is  taken  up  in  ditches  and  dropped  into  turbines 
through  pipes,  picked  up  by  smaller  companies 
and  again  used  for  generating  electricity;  after 
which  the  same  water  is  taken  up  by  ditch  com- 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"         29 

panies  and  sold  to  farmers  for  irrigating  purposes, 
and  likewise  for  domestic  and  drinking  purposes. 
Busy  water,  forsooth ! 

Soon  the  train  glided  easily  onto  the  deck  of 
the  largest  ferry-boat  in  the  world,  the  Solano, 
which  has  a  carrying  capacity  of  two  locomotives 
and  a  train  of  forty  freight  cars  loaded  with 
twenty  tons  of  freight  to  the  car.  At  noon,  when 
the  train  reached  Sacramento,  we  were  destined 
once  again  to  feel  "the  touch  that  makes  the 
whole  world  kin"  in  the  shape  of  huge  bunches 
of  superb  violets  sent  by  Mr.  McCormick — truly 
a  fragrant  remembrance  of  the  giver.  Almost 
simultaneously  came  the  Pullman  porter  stag- 
gering under  three  huge  bundles  of  Southern 
Pacific  literature  sent  by  the  Pink — enough  to  keep 
the  entire  party  engrossed  to  their  destination. 

At  one  o'clock  the  air  began  to  chill,  the  grass 
became  a  little  less  green,  and  the  trees  began  to 
lose  their  luxuriant  foliage.  The  realization  was 
forced  upon  the  party  that  it  was  nearing  the  line 
between  the  land  of  fruit  and  flowers  and  the 
land  of  snow  and  ice.  Soon  the  snow-peaked 
Sierra  Nevadas  came  into  sight.  Suddenly 
Caporn  burst  into  view,  with  its  canyon  depth  of 
1,000  feet,  its  vista  of  sixty-five  miles,  its  superb 
reaches  of  evergreen  glades — a  panorama  of 
majesty  and  grandeur  such  as  fills  the  eye  and 
soul  with  wonder  and  silence — and  the  heart  of 
the  painter  and  writer  with  despair. 

On  went  the  two  powerful  engines  up  that 
wonderful  ascent,  where  a  height  of  7,000  feet  is 
attained  in  85  miles,  each  succeeding  vista  seem- 


30        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

ingly  more  impossible  of  description  than  the  last. 
Silently  on  the  back  platform  of  the  observation 
car  sat  the  Tenderfeet,  only  the  Lady  Gazelle  purr- 
ing with  romantic  feelings  as  she  passed  tree  after 
tree  laden  with  the  growth  of  mistletoe,  the 
sparkle  of  the  happy  brown  eyes  revealing  her 
thoughts  of  the  possibilities  of  such  immense 
quantities  of  the  parasite.  But  even  mistletoe 
must  give  way  to  snow,  and  with  a  sigh  that  spoke 
louder  than  words  the  Lady  Gazelle  sought  the 
seclusion  that  her  stateroom  afforded. 

Then  came  what,  to  the  chronicler,  seemed 
the  most  surpassing  view  of  all — the  American 
River  Canyon,  particularly  effective  at  the 
moment  of  seeing  it,  with  a  bank  of  clouds 
graying  the  sky  in  the  foreground  and  clothing 
the  mountain  tops  with  a  vapory  mist,  while  far 
away  through  the  distant  gorge — cutting  the 
mountain  in  two — the  horizon  was  illumi- 
nated with  a  glowing  amber  reflection  of  the 
dying  day.  Deep  down  in  the  ravine  ran  the 
tracery  of  the  river  like  a  network  of  lace,  while 
over  the  mountainsides  tumbled  the  cascades  of 
the  melting  snows.  It  was  a  picture  seen  at  a 
Bierstadt  or  Moran  hour. 

Slowly  but  surely  was  the  varied  scene  of  this 
wonderful  ride  changing.  Only  fifteen  minutes 
back  and  the  track  was  hedged  by  blossoming 
almond  trees.  Now  patches  of  snow  became 
more  frequent,  until  exactly  twenty-two  minutes 
by  the  watch  had  elapsed  from  the  last  orange 
tree  filled  with  golden  fruit  to  the  evergreen  tree 
laden  with  its  mantle  of  white  snow.  The  scene 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        31 

of  green  had  changed  to  a  scene  of  white — one 
as  gloriously  beautiful  as  the  other,  and  yet  how 
different !  Still,  we  were  in  California,  that  State 
of  infinite  variety,  where  within  an  hour's  walk 
one  passes  from  summer  to  winter. 

Flakes  of  snow  now  began  to  fall,  and  in 
fifteen  minutes  we  were  speeding  through  a  snow- 
storm with  three  feet  of  snow  on  the  level  and 
from  eighteen  to  thirty  feet  in  the  drift.  And 
all  within  the  hour !  It  seemed  to  us  as  if  by 
magic  a  white  curtain  had  been  let  down  to 
shut  out  the  Valley  of  Sunshine,  of  Flowers  and 
of  Fruit.  Truly,  we  were  in  the  midst  of  winter. 
And  as  if  to  remove  the  slightest  doubt  from 
the  mind  of  the  wonderful  transformation 
scene,  we  ran  into  the  great  Southern  Pacific 
snowsheds,  built  like  storied  sheds  down  the 
mountain  and  over  the  track,  forty  miles  long 
and  constructed  at  certain  points  at  a  cost 
of  $150,000  per  single  mile.  To  protect 
these  valuable  sheds  from  forest  fires  or  loco- 
motive sparks,  a  signal  tower  has  been  erected 
by  the  company,  wherein  is  always  stationed  a 
lookout,  scanning  the  vast  reach  of  snowsheds 
with  a  telescope.  A  single  snowfall  means  at  the 
point  of  these  sheds  from  eight  to  fifteen  feet, 
often  covering  a  two-story  house,  and  aggregating 
during  a  winter  a  fall  of  eighty-six  feet  of  snow. 
For  two  hours  we  ran  through  snowsheds,  catch- 
ing glimpses  of  the  white-mantled  gorges  beyond 
through  the  slatted  sides  of  the  sheds.  Like 
green  sentinels  on  carpets  of  white  stood  miles 
after  miles  of  pines,  until  at  eight  o'clock,  after 


32        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

riding  ten  hours,  the  train  crossed  the  line  and 
we  were  in  Nevada. 

We  had  left  California  behind — the  State  which 
for  four  weeks  had  made  history  in  the  minds  and 
lives  of  the  Tenderfeet,  and  where  they  had  found 
the  natures  of  men  and  women  as  golden  as  the 
fruits  in  their  orchards,  where  hospitality  is  as 
fragrant  as  the  flowers  which  clothe  their  homes, 
and  where  hearts  are  as  large  as  the  redwoods 
of  their  cathedral  groves. 

And  so,  with  memories  green  and  hearts  swell- 
ing, the  Tenderfeet  closed  their  first  day  on  the 
final  lap  of  the  journey. 

TOWARD    SUNRISE    ON    "THE    SUNSET" 

and  just  as  we  were  going  to  bed,  this  telegram 
was  delivered  to  us  by  the  conductor,  showing 
that  we  were  still  in  the  mind  of  our  host. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  3,  14,  '03. 
F.  N.  DOUBLEDAY  (c.  o.  Cond'r  No.  2)  : 

Trust  the  Bears,  the  Lambs  and  the  Wilsons  have  spent 
delightfully  their  last  day  in  the  Golden  State.  As  you 
cross  the  line,  take  California's  greetings.  Come  again  soon. 

JAS.  HORSBURGH,  JR. 

THIRTY-SIXTH  DAY  (March  i5th) 

When  the  Tenderfeet  awoke  on  this  Sunday 
morning  and  looked  out  from  their  berths,  the 
glorious  Sierras  had  been  left  far  behind  and  a 
dreary,  desolate,  arid,  treeless  region  stretched 
in  all  directions  as  far  as  eye  could  see.  No  one 
was  surprised  to  hear  that  the  population  of  the 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        33 

entire  State  of  Nevada  is  only  42,000.  The 
wonder  is  that  any  one  would  deliberately  choose 
to  live  there  with  the  paradise  of  California  lying 
just  across  its  border. 

BUT  SILVER  MINES  TEMPT  MEN 

as  readily  as  gold,  and  since  all  cannot  be  silver 
kings  and  buy  Senators'  seats  and  palaces  in 
Washington,  the  disappointed  ones  mine  the 
lesser  minerals  or  become  sheep-herders.  Here 
and  there  was  seen  a  little  group  of  Shoshone 
teepees  in  the  distance,  or  a  prairie  schooner 
laboring  across  the  windy  plains,  a  smokepipe 
projecting  above  its  canvas  roof,  a  side  of  beef  or 
mutton  hanging  from  the  rear,  and  with  four,  six 
or  even  eight  horses  and  mules  pulling  the  travelers 
toward  what,  let  us  hope,  is  a  happier  home  than 
seems  possible  in  this  forlorn  land.  Such  settle- 
ments as  we  passed  in  Nevada,  and  after  the  Utah 
line  had  been  crossed,  consisted  of  a  few  unpainted 
houses  huddled  together  close  beside  the  railroad 
track,  with  saloons  for  their  most  imposing 
edifices  and 

A  CYCLONE  CELLAR  IN  EVERY  BACK  YARD 

More  attractive  only  because  they  were  more 
picturesque  were  the  neighboring  Chinese 
settlements,  which  furnish  the  vegetables  and 
fruits  to  pioneers,  who  rarely  take  the  trouble  to 
make  gardens  of  their  own.  This  is  surely  the 
Wild  West — the  wildest,  most  unlovely  part  of 


34        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

it  we  have  yet  seen.  How  exquisitely  tinted 
is  the  desert  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  that 
has  a  fascination  indescribable,  and  how  forbidding 
the  Great  American  Desert  through  which  we  are 
glad  enough  to  pass  without  once  leaving  the  car  ! 
We  admit  the  marvelous  achievements  of  the 
men  who  settled  Utah  and  made  arid  alkali 
prairies  produce  prodigious  harvests,  since  THE 
WORLD'S  WORK  compels  us  to,  but  this  Tenderfoot 
is  convinced  that  a  State  requires  more  than 
agriculture  and  Mormonism  to  make  it  great. 

From  car  windows  we  caught  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  great  Salt  Lake  and  snow-covered 
mountain  peaks,  the  only  truly  beautiful  objects 
seen  in  Utah. 

On  reaching  Salt  Lake  City  two  hours  late,  and 
therefore  too  late  to  attend  the  afternoon  services 
in  the  great  Mormon  Tabernacle,  the  thoughtful 
kindness  of  the  Pink  was  again  demonstrated. 
He  had  asked  three  leading  citizens  to  meet  and 
personally  conduct  us  to  the  Tabernacle,  where 
Professor  MacClellan  waited  long  and  patiently 
to  give  us  a  special  concert. 

THE    TABERNACLE    Is   REALLY    A    WONDERFUL 
BUILDING 

when  one  remembers  what  the  desert  must 
have  been  in  the  early  sixties,  before  a  railroad 
penetrated  it.  Wood  had  to  be  hauled  by 
ox-teams  several  hundred  miles  from  canyons 
in  the  mountains;  nails  cost  seventy -five  cents  a 
pound,  and  small  panes  of  window-glass  as  much. 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        35 

Yet  the  vast  capsule  seats  more  than  eight  thou- 
sand people,  and  its  rounded  roof,  like  the  side 
walls,  is  nine  feet  thick.  An  unadorned  capsule 
it  is,  as  plain  within  as  a  Quaker  meeting-house, 
for  beauty  is  a  thing  unknown  even  now  in  Utah. 
Seated  in  the  gallery  opposite  the  great  organ, 
we  could  distinctly  hear  a  pin  drop  in  the  elders' 
seats  fully  two  hundred  feet  away. 

A  CHOIR  OF  FIVE  HUNDRED 

is  seated  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  elders 
during  all  services,  but,  unhappily,  it  had  dis- 
persed before  we  reached  the  Tabernacle.  Pro- 
fessor MacClellan  displayed  the  powers  of  the 
famous  organ  in  a  variety  of  selections,  ranging 
from  "Tannhauser"  to  the  "Andante,"  by 
Mascagni,  as  one  of  our  Mormon  hosts  called 
what  another  host  referred  to  as  the  "Ave 
Maria  "of  "Cavalleria  Rusticana. " 

The  Temple  adjoins  the  Tabernacle,  but  no 
polluted  Gentile  feet  may  tread  its  saintly  aisles ; 
so  we  hastened  to  our  hotel  to  console  ourselves 
with  dinner  as  best  we  might 

THIRTY-SEVENTH  DAY  (March  i6th) 

After  a  refreshing  night  in  civilized  beds,  the 
Bears  and  Gazelles  breakfasted  together  at  a 
reasonable  hour,  and  then  scattered  to  investigate 
the  chosen  city  of  the  Latter-Day  Saints,  while 
our  poor,  tired  Lambs,  not  having  turned  in  until 
the  reckless  hour  of  nine,  enjoyed  a  tete-a-tete 


36        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

repast  at  ten.  All  joined  forces  again  at  a  twelve- 
thirty  attempt  at  luncheon,  to  be  ready  for 
Mr.  Savage,  who  was  to  conduct  us  to 


AN  INTERVIEW  WITH  PRESIDENT  JOSEPH  F.  SMITH, 

the  present  Prophet  of  the  Mormon  Church. 
First  we  came  to  the  Eagle  Gate,  which  formerly 
marked  the  entrance  to  Brigham  Young's  private 
grounds,  passing  under  which,  as  good  luck  would 
have  it,  just  as  we  arrived,  came  a  little  sweet- 
faced  old  lady — "one  of  Brigham' s  wives, "  says  Mr. 
Savage,  with  bated  breath.  "  There  are  only  two 
or  three  still  living. "  Next  stands  the  famous 
Beehive,  the  official  residence  of  the  President, 
and  between  this  and  the  Lion  House,  where 
President  Young  lived  with  the  major  part  of  his 
family  in  so-called  peace  and  harmony,  and 
named  from  the  lion  couchant  over  the  door, 
stands  a  little  old-fashioned  building — the  Presi- 
dent's official  headquarters.  This  we  entered 
and  were  given  chairs  in  his  office,  when  immedi- 
ately a  door  opened  and  the  Prophet  was  with  us. 
Tall  and  thin,  with  the  venerable  beard  that  seems 
to  mark  the  species,  we  could  not  but  be  impressed 
by  his  dignity  and  sincerity  of  purpose,  after 
the  interchange  of  customary  civilities,  by  his 
amiable  recognition  of  the  thirst  for  knowledge 
which  we  were  all  laboring  under,  cheerfully 
submitting  to  the  catechism  of  the  courageous 
Lamb,  the  rest  of  us,  more  timid  by  nature, 
thankfully  absorbing  it  all.  We  learned  that 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        37 

THE   BIBLE  Is   THE    FOUNDATION    OF  MORMON 
BELIEF 

but  co-equal  with  it  they  place  the  Book  of 
Mormon,  compiled  from  a  vision  experienced  by 
the  founder,  Joseph  Smith,  uncle  of  this  man,  in 
the  year  1820.  They  believe  the  Bible  was  for 
the  people  of  the  Eastern  Hemisphere,  the  Book 
of  Mormon  for  the  Western.  The  reason  that 
their  Temple  is  kept  sacred  from  the  Gentile 
or  outside  world  was  explained  by  the  fact  that 
holy  offices  are  being  constantly  performed  there 
— the  baptism  and  confirmation  of  the  dead — 
for  they  hold  that  a  living  member  of  a  family 
may  save  the  souls  of  unregenerate  ancestors  by 
going  through  the  ordeal  of  baptism  by  immer- 
sion, a  separate  ceremony  being  necessary  for 
each  dear  departed.  In  fear  and  trembling  we 
hear  the  Lamb's  insinuating  voice 

"AND   Now    ABOUT    POLYGAMY,    MR.    SMITH?" 

and  the  information  was  forthcoming  in  the 
same  courteous  spirit.  Plural  marriages,  as  the 
Mormons  term  them,  have  been  permitted  as 
special  rewards  of  merit,  each  one  authorized 
by  the  President — the  applicant  being  intelligent, 
upright  in  character  and  financially  qualified.  Two 
or  three  was  the  usual  number  of  wives  allowed, 
though  some  were  more  ambitious — Father 
Brigham's  ample  fireside  being  too  full  for  utter- 
ance. There  were  formerly  about  two  or  three 
thousand  polygamous  families,  but  since  the  de- 


38        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

cision  of  the  Supreme  Court,  about  ten  years  ago, 
no  such  marriages  have  been  either  performed 
or  sanctioned  by  the  church,  there  being  only 
eight  or  nine  hundred  polygamous  families  in 
existence,  the  paterfamilias  of  each  of  these 
still  holding  himself  responsible  for  their  welfare 
and  maintenance  despite  any  law  to  the  contrary. 
The  church  continues  to  firmly  believe  in  plural 
marriages,  but  sanctions  no  infraction  of  the 
laws  of  the  United  States.  The  time  is  passing, 
however,  and,  knowing  that  we  are  using  up  the 
golden  moments  of  a  busy  man,  we  make  our 
adieus  and  are  piloted,  again  by  Mr.  Savage, 
down  to  the  train  which  is  waiting  to  take 
us  to  Saltair,  a  few  miles  away  on  the  Great 
Salt  Lake,  evidently  the  Coney  Island  of  the 
metropolis.  Before  arriving  there  we  cross  the 
River  Jordan  and  then  come  upon  multitudes  of 
reservoirs  where  salt  is  made  by  solar  evaporation. 
Alighting  from  the  train,  an  enormous  open 
pavillion.  most  fearfully  and  wonderfully  made, 
rises  before  us  with  long  semi-circular  arms 
stretching  out  into  the  salt  sea,  and 

A  LINE  OF  720  BATH-HOUSES  BELOW. 

Much  of  the  lake  at  this  season  is  a  white  sand 
flat,  but  as  we  watched  it,  with  the  wonderful 
snow-covered  mountains  all  about  it,  the  lights 
and  shadows  made  marvelous  color  effects  and 
we  stood  fascinated.  But  a  black  cloud  descended 
and  a  flurry  of  snow  came  upon  us,  so  we  were 
ready  for  the  return  trip  to  the  city,  a  trip  made 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        39 

memorable  by  the  presence  of  a  stunning  little 
bride.  We  much-abused  wives  would  have  put 
blinders  on  our  susceptible  better-halves ;  but  no  ! 
they  sit  with  bulging  eyes  and  open  mouths, 
picking  flaws  in  the  happy  groom  and  cursing 
the  fate  that  brought  them  to  Utah  ten  years  too 
late.  Now 

WE  ARE  HURRIED  TO  THE  TITHING-STORES, 

an  institution  maintained  by  the  Mormon  Church 
for  the  reception  and  disbursement  of  all  kinds  of 
goods  and  provisions,  every  member  in  good 
standing  putting  aside  one-tenth  of  his  income 
either  in  money  or  produce  for  the  poor  and  sick 
and  aged,  who  buy  from  the  tithing-house  with 
little  paper  exchange  slips  which  resemble  our 
paper  money.  The  business  side  of  this  church 
is  a  very  broad  one — the  beehive  being  their 
emblem — and  includes  farming,  the  beet-sugar 
industry,  refining,  banking,  manufacturing, 
mining,  journalism,  and  a  mammoth  enterprise, 
doing  a  business  of  between  $3,000,000  and 
$4,000,000  per  annum,  called  "Zion's  Cooperative 
Mercantile  Institution,"  President  Smith  being 
practically  the  head  of  them  all. 

But  the  day  is  far  spent,  so  we  return  to  the 
hotel  to  prepare  for  our  roving  life  again,  for 
to-night  we  turn  our  faces  toward  Colorado. 

THIRTY-EIGHTH  DAY  (March  lyth) 

This  was  a  day  of  continuous  car  travel,  and 
the  scenery  through  which  we  passed  was  the 


4o         Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

most  sublimely  beautiful  we  had  yet  seen.  The 
first  morning  view  was  of  distant  mesas  bathed 
in  early  sunlight.  Then  the  mesa  forms  changed 
to  mountain  shapes  and  became  higher  and  more 
peak-like.  Some  were  covered  with  firs,  with 
snow  glistening  at  the  top,  while  others  were  bare 
of  tree  life,  showing  marvelous  rock  formations. 
As  we  looked  ahead,  the  mountains  on  each  side 
seemed  to  draw  together,  and  as  we  twisted 
around  through  that  ever-narrowing  space  we 
would  now  and  then  come 

FACE  TO  FACE  WITH  SOME  GIGANTIC  WALL 

where  tunneling  through  the  rock  itself  was 
the  only  way  out.  Through  these  great  Rockies 
we  twisted  all  day,  with  a  stream  ever  at  our  side, 
bordered  at  times  with  low-growing  bushes  of  a 
coppery  redness  in  their  spring  awakening  which, 
with  the  sage  coloring  of  the  sisal  willow,  made 
a  combination  lovely  indeed.  We  passed  through 
famous  Glenwood  Springs,  seeing  the  large  hotel 
snuggled  at  the  base  of  the  mountains  and  the 
open-air  tanks  where  one  may  bathe  out  of  doors 
in  medicinal  waters,  naturally  warm — although  he 
has  only  to  raise  his  eyes  to  see  snow-capped 
peaks.  Glenwood  is  at  the  entrance  of  the  Canyon 
of  the  Grand  River,  where  the  mountains  seem 
almost  to  come  together,  being  cleft  only  by 
that  busy  little  river,  the  Grand,  along  whose 
edge  we  go.  The  walls  of  the  canyon  rise  here  on 
either  hand  to  a  height  that  is  appalling.  As  we 
emerge  from  this  canyon  we  come  upon  beds  of 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        41 

lava,  telling  a  story  of  mighty  upheavals  eons 
ago.  The  mountains  now  recede  a  little,  and  a 
few  cattle  and  scattered  huts  are  seen  here  and 
there. 

WHERE  THE  EAGLE  RIVER  RUNS  INTO  THE  GRAND 

begins  another  canyon,  the  walls  of  which  are 
red  stone — a  red  that  is  wonderful  for  its  glowing 
richness  of  tone.  At  the  end  of  this  canyon, 
silhouetted  against  the  sky,  are  frame  huts  perched 
away  on  top  of  the  canyon  sides.  They  are  the 
homes  of  the  miners  and  are  known  as  the  "Cliff- 
Dwellings.  " 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Minturn, 
and  here  the  train  is  divided  into  two  sections, 
for  there  is  a  great  climb  ahead  up  to  the  Tennes- 
see Pass.  Once  this  Pass  is  reached,  it  is  time 
to  stop  and  think  about  things.  We  are  now 
10,418  feet  above  sea-level,  and  this  is 

THE  VERY  BACKBONE  OF  THE  ROCKIES, 

known  as  the  Continental  Divide.  All  bodies 
of  water  having  their  source  west  of  this  point 
flow  toward  the  Pacific  and  all  streams  rising 
east  of  this  point  flow  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
From  here  the  river  beside  which  we  have  been 
traveling  flows  in  the  opposite  direction  and 
is  now  the  Arkansas  River.  The  train  is  now 
reunited  and  we  go  down  at  a  great  pace,  drop- 
ping at  one  point  406  feet  in  a  mile.  Leadville 
should  now  be  seen,  from  one  point,  as  a  city  in  the 


42        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

clouds,  but  we  missed  just  that  glimpse,  for  at  this 
point  the  Lady  Gazelle,  looking  out  of  the  car 
window,  bristled  with  excitement  and  said, 

"THERE'S  A  WOLF!" 

Having  watched  in  vain  for  something  wild  for 
the  past  six  weeks,  this  announcement  threw 
the  Tenderfeet  into  a  tremendous  nutter.  We 
hung  out  of  the  windows  and  scanned  the  entire 
landscape,  including  horizon  and  sky,  but  no 
wolf  was  visible.  Mrs.  Gazelle  vehemently  in- 
sisted that  she  had  seen  the  animal,  and  as  we 
all  have  grown  to  love  that  little  lady  we  humored 
her — swallowed  our  suspicions  and  disappoint- 
ment at  one  gulp,  and  dropped  the  matter.  The 
mountains  now  seemed  closing  in  on  us,  and  we 
knew  that  the  Royal  Gorge  must  be  not  far  ahead. 
Great  structures  of  soft-colored  rock  rose  high 
above  us,  on  either  side,  and  the  track  ran  here 
by  the  very  brink  of  the  river.  Our  train  wound 
its  way  through  this  great  canyon  as  a  snake  might 
twist  and  turn  on  his  path  at  the  foot  of  a  moun- 
tain— and  we  soon  found  ourselves 

HEMMED  IN  BETWEEN  Two  GIGANTIC  WALLS, 

with  the  sky  visible  only  as  a  strip  of  blue 
away,  away  up — when  we  craned  our  necks  to 
find  it.  At  the  narrowest  point  of  the  canyon  the 
train  must  cross  the  river — which  is  now  a  little 
torrent — and  yet  there  is  not  a  single  bit  of 
ground  here,  on  either  side,  on  which  to  place 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset "        43 

the  base  of  a  bridge — only  the  stream  and  the 
great  walls  of  pinkish  rock,  which,  as  we  saw  it, 
was  gorgeously  bathed  in  sunset  colors.  But 
man  has  triumphed  over  Nature  even  here,  and 
we  see  ahead  of  us  a  span  of  steel  in  the  shape  of 
the  letter  A,  braced  only  against  the  sides  of  the 
canyon,  its  strength  being  at  the  apex  of  the  two 
beams  which  support  each  other  in  their  contact. 
From  this  centre  is  hung  a  bridge,  and  we  go 
thundering  over  it  and  are  soon  out  of  the  gorge- 
all  too  soon,  for  there  is  nothing  grander  than 
this  on  the  road.  After  dinner  we  reach  Colorado 
Springs  and  find  a  fine,  large  hotel,  the  Antlers, 
twinkling  with  lights,  just  across  the  road.  A 
black-hearted  coach-driver  says  that  this  hotel 
is  several  blocks  away,  and  tries  to  ensnare  us 
into  his  vehicle.  But  here  the  Lamb  stands 
right  up  and  makes  remarks  to  that  wretch, 
shoulders  his  own  baggage  and  wrathfully  makes 
his  way  across  the  road  to  the  hotel,  the  party 
following,  some  meekly  and  others  not  so  meekly. 

THIRTY-NINTH  DAY  (March  i8th) 

We  liked  the  Antlers  and  we  liked  Colorado 
Springs,  we  liked  the  Antlers'  beds,  the  food,  and 
the  professional  rates  which  the  Lamb  secured — 
even  he  does  not  exactly  know  how.  It  came 
about  in  this  way:  The  clerk  at  the  desk  recog- 
nized— or  thought  he  recognized — the  Lamb 
as  a  long-lost  friend.  So  the  treasurer,  feeling 
a  little  thin  as  to  his  wad,  told  the  Lamb 
to  arrange  the  bill.  The  clerk,  looking  at  his 


44         Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

clean,  clerical  face,  his  commercial  cheek  or 
his  theatrical  make-up,  we  don't  know  which, 
remarked,  "Professional  rates,  I  suppose?"  to 
which  the  Lamb  only  nodded  affirmative,  not 
knowing  whether  his  troop  was  religious,  dramatic 
or  a  band  of  drummers.  Anyhow,  a  bill  was 
produced  which  made  the  attenuated  Gazelle 
treasurer  break  down  and  sob  like  a  child  with 
joy. 

At  the  hotel  we  found  this  pleasant  telegram, 
showing  that  although  gone  we  were  not  forgotten, 
and  a  generous  disregard  for  telegraph  tolls  which 
never  ceases  to  impress  us. 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL.,  March   17,  1903. 
F.  N.  DOUBLEDAY,  Care  Antlers,  Colo.  Springs,  Colo. 

We  hope  it  is  as  bright  and  sunny  at  Colorado  Springs  as 
it  is  here  this  A.M.,  and  as  sparkling  as  your  brilliant  party 
deserves.  Just  returned  with  Mrs.  McCormick  from  a  drive 
on  the  beach  at  Cliff  House,  and  we  wished  you  had  all  been 
with  us.  E.  O.  MCCORMICK. 

Unhappily  the  weather  did  not  agree  with  Mr. 
McCormick,  for  the  irridescent  Zoo  was  wrapped 
in  cold,  bluster  and  dust — anything  but  sparkling. 

But  to  begin  at  the  beginning:  We  awoke 
refreshed.  The  Lady  Gazelle,  who,  the  night 
before,  carried  her  famous  ''little  gray  jewel-bag" 
and  another  bag  up  the  long  flight  of  stone  steps 
leading  to  the  hotel,  walking  up  her  own  skirt 
most  of  the  time  and  almost  losing  her  temper, 
was  radiant  after  a  good  sleep,  and  we  started  for 
Manitou  Springs  and  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  in 
two  carriages. 

We  can  go  on  with  life's  journey  and  cut  out 
Manitou  Springs  without  any  excessive  suffering, 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        45 

but  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  was  surely  interesting 
and  beautiful.  Queer  formations  of  red  rock 
cover  a  few  hundred  acres.  The  roads  are 
fine,  and  the  vandal  had  stayed  his  hand  so  that 
the  traveling  tourists'  names  were  not  seen  at 
every  monument  of  interest.  But  the  best  of  the 
drive  came  when  we  entered  Glen  Eyrie,  General 
Palmer's  beautiful  home.  Fine  trees  lined  the 
road  from  the  park  gates  in  a  land  where  trees 
were  apparently  unknown.  An  eagle's  nest  of 
generous  proportions  was  plastered  in  a  crag  we 
passed,  and  the  same  strange  red  formations 
which  made  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  famous 
General  Palmer  has  in  his  own  front  yard,  so  to 
speak. 

We  were  so  f  ortunate  as  to  find  the  General  him- 
self at  home  and  most  cordial.  We  all  regretted 
that  we  could  spend  only  a  few  minutes  with  him. 
The  Gazelle,  wishing,  as  he  always  does,  to  say 
the  right  thing,  remarked  in  a  low  but  penetrating 
voice,  "We  like  your  hotel,  General  Palmer"; 
but  evidently  the  General  had  little  experience  in 
receiving  delegations  as  tavern-keeper,  and  no 
apt  phrase  such  as  hotel  men  use,  like  "Come 
again  "  or  "  We  strive  to  please,  "  occurring  to  him, 
the  subject  was  dropped. 

A  wild  snowstorm  came  up  in  the  afternoon 
and  we  missed  our  connection  at  Denver,  forcing 
upon  us  a  stay  of  six  hours  in  that  town,  which 
was  passing  through  what  they  called  a  blizzard, 
but  what  a  Boston  bean-eater  would  call  a 
breezelet. 

The  Bear  and  the  Lamb  called  on  Mr.  Hooper,  of 


46        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset1' 

the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande,  whom  the  Bear  had 
known  fifteen  years  ago.  He  expressed  himself 
delighted  to  see  us,  but  undoubtedly  regretted  it 
when  we  began  making  suggestions  as  to  how  to 
conduct  his  railroad. 

We  told  him  it  seemed  queer  to  us  that  he 
should  spend  thousands  of  dollars  advertising  the 
Royal  Gorge,  and  after  one  goes  hundreds  or 
thousands  of  miles  to  see  it,  that  the  railway 
should  dash  through  the  famous  place  (which  is 
only  about  a  mile  long)  at  twenty  miles  an  hour. 
No  observation  car,  no  stop,  and  no  real  chance 
to  see  its  wonders  are  offered.  He  explained 
that  the  demand  for  speed  was  too  great.  It 
seemed  queer  that  trains  almost  always  late 
could  not  stand  five  minutes'  further  detention. 

The  late  afternoon  was  spent  by  the  ladies  in  a 
curio  store,  much  to  the  embarrassment  of  the 
already  frightened  treasurer,  and  by  the  printer' s- 
ink  contingent  in  discussing  men  and  books  with 
the  Colorado  News  Company,  to  the  genuine 
enlightenment  of  the  visitors.  So  with  a  generous 
dinner  at  Brown's  Palace  Hotel  we  came  to 
the  Burlington  cars  at  ten  with  the  usual  squabble 
as  to  who  should  occupy  the  drawing-room  and 
who  the  berths,  and  with  the  usual  result  that 
the  accommodating  Bruin  family  took  the  best. 

FORTIETH  DAY  (March  igth) 

On  Thursday,  March  igth,  we  awakened  from 
our  expensive  and  more  or  less  restful  sleep  to 
find  ourselves  in  the  vast  reaches  of  the  Nebraska 


Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset"        47 

cornfieldsj  To  what  scenic  variety  have  we  been 
treated  the  past  four  days !  Summer  climate 
and  oranges  in  California,  the  high  and  arid 
plains  of  Nevada  and  Utah,  the  majestic  heights 
of  the  Rockies,  and  to-day  these  hundreds  of 
miles  of  corn-stalks,  force  upon  us  an  appreciation 
of  the  cause  of  the  favorable  national  export 
balances  and  the  making  of  foreign  exchange. 

So  we  steam  through  Nebraska,  stopping  at 
small,  uninteresting  towns,  among  others  Lincoln, 
the  home  of  W.  J.  Bryan,  and  finally  reach 
Omaha,  where  we  stay  for  an  hour  and  have  time 
for  a  glimpse  of  the  city  and  a  breath  of  fresh  air. 
Then  on  again  across  the  Missouri  River  and  into 
fertile  Iowa. 

Our  dinner  is  a  matter  for  special  record,  for 
we  had  become  so  used  to  the  ugly  Pullmans, 
with  their  ill-assorted  colors,  filagree  woodwork 
and  gilt,  that  the  beautiful  "Burlington"  diner 
of  Mission  design  and  simplicity  of  decoration 
was  most  agreeable  in  contrast.  We  were  told 
that  it  was  built  by  the  Pullman  Company  from  a 
design  prepared  by  officers  of  the  road  and  their 
wives,  and  we  were  led  to  moralize  on  the  short- 
comings of  that  great  car-building  company  in 
this  regard,  and  their  failure  to  live  up  to  their 
opportunities  for  elevating  the  standard  of  public 
taste.  As  it  is,  the  ornate  ugliness  of  their  cars  is 
reflected  in  many  hotels  and  homes. 

But  as  the  engine  eats  up  the  miles  of  track 
our  thoughts  turn  toward  Home  and  all  the  word 
means  to  us,  and  we  feel  like  turning  to  and 
helping  the  stoker.  The  fact  is  also  borne  in 


48        Toward  the  Sunrise  on  "  The  Sunset" 

upon  us  that  this  is  the  last  full  day  of  the  "  Zoo's  " 
performance  as  a  troupe  this  season,  for  we  are 
nearing  Chicago,  the  place  of  disintegration,  and 
there  is  a  tinge  of  melancholy  in  our  hearts  not 
induced  by  the  raw  March  wind  that  blows  across 
the  prairies.  Our  memories  run  back  over  the 
manifold  experiences  of  the  past  six  weeks  to 
the  big-hearted  friends  we  have  made  and  their 
more  than  generous  hospitality  and  kindness, 
which  have  been  a  revelation  and  a  lesson.  But 
as  the  last  recorder  of  this  trip,  I  have  a  golden 
opportunity  to  polish  off  the  other  animals  and 
show  up  their  foibles,  for  they  cannot  retaliate; 
but  strangely  enough,  try  as  I  may,  memory  fails 
to  yield  a  single  discord  or  jarring  note  in  our 
comradeship  during  8,300  miles  or  more  of  travel, 
and  for  this  recorder  the  future  holds  no  happier 
possibility  than  another  pilgrimage  in  company 
with  the  incomparable  "  Zoo, "  who  must  now  say 
"  Au  revoir,  but  not  good-by." 


THE  END 


